Arc de Triomphe

Opening Hours
From 1 April to 30 September - 10.00 a.m. to 11.00 p.m.
From 1 October to 31 March - 10.00 a.m. to 10.30 p.m.
Please note that ticket booths will stop selling tickets 30 minutes before closing time. Closed on 1 January, 1 May, 8 May (morning only), 14 July (morning only), 11 November (morning only) and 25 December.

How to get there
Address: Place Charles de Gaulle
Metro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
RER: Line A Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Bus: 73

Photography Policy
Photography is permitted.

The Arc de Triomphe, Napoleon’s iconic tribute to both himself and the troops who took part in the Napoleonic Wars, is another of those magnificent Paris landmarks that have been photographed so often that there would seem little chance of adding your own interpretation.

I have to confess that I think it is much harder finding a unique angle on this huge triumphal arch, completed in the 1830s and based on Rome’s Arch of Titus, in comparison with many other tourist goals in the French capital. That’s partly to do with the fact that it just offers fewer possibilities and partly because I don’t find it as interesting or stimulating as other landmarks, although I acknowledge the special place it has in the hearts and minds of the French people.

Hub
It’s a hugely impressive structure set in the middle of an important Paris roundabouts, the Place Charles de Gaulle, which is the hub for no fewer than 13 major roads. In the midst of this hustle and bustle sits the arch, 51m tall and 45m wide, reputedly the second largest of its kind in the world behind one in North Korea built in 1982 in honour of Kim Il-sung.

The arch is adorned with such notable sculptures as the “Departure of the Volunteers” by Francois Rude and the “Triumph of Napoleon” by J. P. Cortot. There are 30 shields at the apex of the arch recalling each of Napoleon’s victories and the the inner walls hold the names of 558 French generals. It’s also the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and, at ground level, you’ll see the eternal flame which is rekindled at 6.30 p.m. each night.

From the arch
Whilst no trip to Paris would be complete without a visit to the Arc de Triomphe, in my opinion it’s more interesting for what it is rather than how it looks. The photographic successes I’ve had there have featured things that can be seen from the arch.

I particularly like the small gardens that are dotted about and which take on a new look from a bird’s eye perspective atop the arch. I’m going to persevere with this in future as I feel the right combination of people in the right light in an overhead shot of one of the gardens could be quite special. I’ve just never found that happy co-incidence of circumstances! Devoid of people, the gardens still make a good subject in winter time before foliage has started to appear and soften the graphic outlines of the dark branches.

Copyright © 2008 Paris Travelogue


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Notre Dame

Opening HoursDaily from 7:45 a.m. to 6:45 p.m. Admission is free.
How to get thereAddress: Place du parvis de Notre DameMetro: CitéRER: Châtelet-Les Halles, Saint Michel-Notre DameBus: 21, 24, 27, 38, 47, 85, 96

Photography PolicyPhotography is permitted except during services but tripods aren't allowed. Flash isn't supposed to be allowed either but you will probably see quite a few flash photographs being taken and seldom is anything said.

The Ile de la Cite is the oldest part of Paris and Notre Dame is, in my opinion, the most interesting building. In fact, I absolutely love the areas on both banks around the island and would happily move there tomorrow – if I could afford a house. Strolling along the banks of the Seine gazing at this gothic masterpiece is one of life’s great pleasures. From any angle, it’s a visual feast. OK, so this area can appear a bit touristy but that’s all right, I’m a tourist!

My last visit was a bit special as my Henri IV Rive Gauche Hotel was no more than few minutes from the cathedral. Turning right out of the hotel and then first right again took me onto a back street, Rue Saint Julien le Pauvre, which skirted the ancient Melkite Greek Catholic church of the same name, before emerging opposite the Seine and just along from the famous English-language bookshop, Shakespeare. We were staying no more than 300 yards from the historical heart of the city.

It’s difficult to recommend one particular view of the cathedral as there’s something to be said for just about every angle. Construction began in 1163 when Louis VII was on the throne although it was another 37 years before the twin towers which give it one of the most instantly recognisable faces in the world got underway. Around 1210 to 1220, a start was made to the halls beneath the towers. However, the towers themselves weren’t finished until 1245 and it was another 100 years after that before the cathedral was “signed off”. Instead of being the design of just one man, it’s known that several architects had an input and it’s this eclecticism that makes the building so interesting.

Classic ViewIt has to be said, though, that the view of the cathedral from the Pont de L’Archeveche is a classic. The river, the quays, lovers strolling hand-in-hand and the cathedral filling the background-great stuff! It’s even better at night when Notre Dame is floodlit. Quite often, night photographs can be disappointing as the sky and much of the surrounding scenery is in complete darkness, leaving the floodlit building as the only thing visible. However, there is so much light around Notre Dame at night that this is never the case. A low cloud base will also reflect the light from countless other floodlit buildings in the distance, giving the sky an ethereal look.

Square de L’Ile de France to the rear of the cathedral is filled with formal-looking, square-clipped trees – how I love that look! – and there are some great photographs to be had of the gothic towers poking above them and of the people milling between the lines of trees. If you have time to loiter and a good eye, this can be a great place for street photography. Every other person you see will have a camera as well so you never feel out of place.

The classic street photography approach uses a moderately wide-angle or standard lens but in this square a slight telephoto - say around 75mm to 90mm - will yield better results. It’s preferable to stand back a little and photograph people against the geometric rows of trees than to invite their wrath by jumping in amongst them with a 28mm lens.

The front of the cathedral is packed day and night with crowds of people either queuing to get in or, having done the tour, savouring the experience outside. I’ve always found it difficult to get any sort of coherent images of Notre Dame from this square. There isn’t enough room to get the towers in the frame without suffering from the dreaded converging verticals - not a nice affliction.

Impressive SightThe best photographs of the front are taken from the left bank looking across the Pont au Double and the Petit Pont bridges. In winter and spring, the setting sun illuminates the whole facade - a tremendously impressive and moving sight. This side of the cathedral also gives you a great view of the famous “flying buttresses”, the exo-skeleton that holds the building together. It’s also where many bookstall-holders ply their wares adding yet another element of charm to a scene that is hardly shortchanged in that department.

The cathedral also makes a nice backdrop for shots of the canal boats and the trees that line the Port de Montebello. Some of the cafes on the left bank, although a bit pricey, are pleasant places to sit and absorb the view. Photographs from their interior, looking out towards Notre Dame, can really capture the essence of the city-even more so if executed in black and white!

Copyright © 2008 Paris Travelogue